The example, how to make a bellows did not include a liner. Use the outer covering to make a copy on the inner liner material and lay it out on pattern #3. Use the same measurements (15mm from the top left and 15 from the bottom right). Glue it down while it is flat on the table top and then finish the last section with use of the board as described in the bellows page.
Iner liner
I have used different material over the time, but the one that I prefer is dull black and close woven. In the fabric store its under several names, basically a liner for women clothing. I have also tried silk and rayons, they are difficult to cut and the threads tend to bunch up and pull.
Outer liner
The material available in this area for bellows making is not very good. I have used with success a material called blackout curtain: it is very close to the commercial material that is used on bellows. As far as I know its only available in black one side cream on the other, its also a little softer in character. For a long bellows this may sag too much.
The other material that I' ve tried and it works quite well is used for awnings that you might see over store fronts, boats and the like. By asking many questions I was able to find black both sides and quite thin. It folds very well and has some stiffness to it.
Adhesives:
When I first started to make bellows I used contact cement. The type that does not string. As I recall the contact cements is soft and pliable for a short time, then it becomes noticeable stiff and affected the way the bellows collapsed and stretched.
Over the last few years I've been using a pressure sensitive glue available from Sears hardware department. Its called Franklin Sanding Disc Cement. Its a white glue easy flowing (similar to carpenters white glue). As this glue dries it becomes clear and very sticky. It is advisable to use a slip sheet when placing the patterns on the outer covering. This glue doesn't allow for mistakes. The good side is that it bonds very well and stays flexible. 8 oz bottle $3.99
I have recently tried what I think is the same type of glue but as a spray. On a scrap piece of paper, lay the pattern down and lightly spray an even coat of glue on it. Let it sit a few seconds and place it on the marked position on the outer covering. It is very quick process and if the pattern is started on one edge rather than laying it flat out, it can be adjusted with ease. Once in place it should be rolled or pressed down the hands. There is a warning printed on the can, it should be used with good circulation and keep away from open flames or sparks. Its called Nashua 357 spray adhesive, available from Safety Express in Toronto, Ontario at about $6 a can.
From my local stationary store is a 3m product called Photo-Mount Adhesive, permanent mounting of photos to various backings. I have not tried this yet. Spray can 276g $12.
As I stated in the bellows page, I have only studied 2 commercial bellows. One was a Polaroid 410 and the other an very old brittle 8x10 Deardorff. I would like to study some other bellows with the hopes of finding some answer to question that I have been plagued with. If anyone has a bellows that is in poor shape or unwanted I would appreciate having them. Please contact me and make arrangements.
Metals
I have recently order some aluminum for my camera experiments.
Sheet stock .125" x4'x8' $135.
Square tube 1" od x .125" wall x 23' $32
Angle .125" x 1"x1"x20' $13
Flat .125"x.75x.6' $6.39, .125"x2"x1' $2.45, .250"x1"x6' $10.99
Round .375"x6' $6.99, .375"x8' $8.49
Brass sheet stock 3/32"x3'x8' in excess of $500
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